The only thing that had it secured was the 10 mm nut that had held the alternator cable in place. I realized that the lower multi link would pull out of the fuse box. Since this was my first experience with this type of design I took my time and used a mirror to inspect the situation from underneath. It will need to be pulled away from the fuse box to gain better access to the screws holding the multi fuse link assembly in place. Now that the two halves are separated, the fuse box insert, which also happens to be a forward control body module, needs to be removed from the main fuse box.Īfter the latches on either end are released the insert will lift up and off of the main fuse box. There are several that need to be released. The clips that hold the lower cover to the fuse box assembly. Notice the vehicle paint color has changed. I have added some new pictures to hopefully better show how this is done. The larger cover under the box also has to have it’s locking tabs released because both of the lower pieces have to slide down, out or off of the main box at the same time. You can use a small screwdriver blade to depress the tabs from the outside of the box. There are two locking tabs that have to be released from the inner slot and then the bracket will slide down and off of the fuse box assembly. Now the bottom bracket had to be removed. Once the wiring was loose, the panel that they were connected to would slide up and out of the main fuse box assembly. All of the connectors have latches that have to be depressed before they can be pulled loose. The next thing I decided to remove was the alternator lead and the three white harness connectors. Depressing that tab from the rear and pushing it towards the front of the vehicle allowed the tab to come right out. A little gentle prying exposed the retention tab located towards the rear of the vehicle. Once the bolts are removed, the box still did not want to move very well and I found a peg that had a slight friction grip to the inner fender panel. There are two bolts along the upper edge as well. This same repair also applies to the 2007 year model so my assumption would be that it also applies to the 2008 year model. It can be removed without taking the battery out but the fuse box cannot be disassembled with the battery in place. The bottom bolt had been under the plastic battery tray. Once it was out of the way I started unbolting the underhood fuse box assembly. To see that post please click here.The next step to repair this vehicle was to remove the battery and battery tray. They should be able to figure out if the component needs to be replaced or if there is a short or some other problem with your Sienna.In the last post about this 2009 Toyota Camry, I had diagnosed a blown multi fuse link assembly.
#Remove 40 amp fuse toyota professional#
If checking and replacing the fuse for the component in question doesn't work, we recommend seeking assistance from a trusted professional mechanic. If you need to replace a blown fuse in your Sienna, make sure you replace it with one that has the same amperage as the blown fuse. Some components may have multiple fuses, so make sure you check all of the fuses that are linked to the component that is no longer working properly. Some Toyotas have multiple fuse boxes in the engine bay, so be sure to find the fuse(s) in question. The more electronics your Sienna has, the more fuses it has. Fuses should always be the first thing you check if your Sienna is experiencing electrical difficulties because they are relatively easy and inexpensive to change yourself.
#Remove 40 amp fuse toyota how to#
The video above shows how to check and change blown fuses in the engine bay of your 2002 Toyota Sienna in addition to where the fuse box diagram is located. If your convenience lights, turn signals, seat warmers, stereo, headlights or other electronic components suddenly stop working, chances are you have a fuse that has blown out.
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